Discover the Maeve Granny Square crochet pattern, blending classic granny stitches with bold spikes and crosses for a modern, cozy design.

The Maeve Granny Square

The granny square is one of the most versatile crochet design features in the crochet toolbox. And, it just happens to be my favorite crochet design element!

The traditional granny square can seem so plain and ordinary. And, yet, with some creative tweaking it can adopt a bold, modern look.

That’s what the Maeve granny square has to offer. Designed specifically for the 2025 Granny Stitch Sampler Blanket, it’s a creative take on a classic design.

Design + Construction

At the heart of the Maeve granny square is the traditional granny stitch. It’s that little stitch – 3 double crochets worked in the same space – that gives the classic granny square its iconic look.

To add subtle texture, I’ve popped in a round of half double crochets worked in the 3rd loop (aka the camel stitch). This little beauty has become one of my favorites for adding surface texture. It’s easy, quick and not fussy at all.

The 2 new kids on the block are the crossed granny stitch and the spiked granny stitch. Both include 3 double crochets just like they’re cousin but what you do with those 3 double crochets makes them unique.

In the crossed double crochet, the 3rd double crochet of the group is worked in a skipped stitch, “crossing” it over the other 2. The middle stitch of the spiked granny stitch is worked as a front post stitch, giving it the look of a spike.

All together, the Maeve granny square combines the traditional with the modern for a subtle, striking statement.

The Yarn

I chose Lion Brand’s “Heartland” worsted weight yarn, partly because that’s the yarn chosen for the Granny Stitch Sampler Blanket.

Lion Brand “Heartland” 100% premium acrylic worsted weight (5oz/251yd; 142g/230m)

However, my real motivation is that it’s just the most glorious blanket yarn ever!

I’m not a happy crocheter unless the yarn I’m using is soft, easy to work with, and makes my project look stunning. Heartland ticks all three of those things off the list, making it my perfect choice.

If Heartland isn’t your thing, no worries! Choose your favorite worsted weight yarn for making blankets. Or, maybe find what you have in your stash. The granny square doesn’t take much yarn so you can mix and match throughout for your own unique take on Maeve.

Yarn Substitute

Want to choose another yarn but you don’t know what would work?

Use my handy Yarn Substitution Worksheet to figure it out.

Or, click here to find a similar yarn to Heartland.

The Maeve Granny Square Free Pattern

General Information

Yarn

Lion Brand “Heartland” 100% premium acrylic worsted weight (5oz/251yd; 142g/230m)

Mount Rainier (150T) – 125-150yds

Any worsted weight yarn appropriate for a blanket will work for this square. Substituting another yarn may alter the finished size of the square.

Hook

US size H-8 (5mm)

Finished Size

Approx. 12-12.5″ square

Gauge

Rnds 1-3 = approx. 4″ measured across

Skill Level – Advanced Beginner/Intermediate

Abbreviations – US crochet terminology

• beg – beginning
• ch – chain
• dc – double crochet
• FPdc – front post double crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• rep – repeat
• rnd(s) – round(s)
• sc – single crochet
• sk – skip
• sp – space
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• RS – right side
• WS – wrong side
• YO – yarn over

Repeats

• ( … ) – Work everything within the parentheses in the same st or sp
• [ … ] – Work everything within the brackets the number of times indicated
• { … } – Work everything within the braces the number of times indicated

Special Stitches

Crossed granny stitch (crossed GS) – sk 1 st, dc in the next 2 sts, dc in the skipped st.

Granny stitch (GS) – 3 dc in the same st or sp

Half double crochet in the 3^rd loop (hdc 3lp) – when working with the RS of the sts facing – YO, insert hook through the 3^rd loop that sits just under and behind the top loop of the stitch, YO, pull through the 3^rd loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook to complete the hdc.

Invisible join: At the end of the rnd, remove the working loop from hook, insert hook from back to front through the top of the 1^st st of the rnd, add the working loop back onto the hook and pull through to the WS, continue as instructed

Spiked granny stitch (spiked GS) – The spiked granny stitch is worked the same as a traditional granny stitch with the exception of the center dc. [Dc in the indicated st, FPdc around the same dc, dc in the same st as the 1^st dc which sits behind the FPdc]

Stacked single crochet (STsc) – (This stitch is used at the beginning of a round to replace the traditional turning ch-3. It has the appearance of a dc.) – Insert hook in the same st as the loop, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (bottom sc made), insert hook in the left vertical bar of the bottom sc, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops (top sc made).

Pattern Notes

1. Do not turn after any rnd. The RS will always be facing you.
2. A ch-1 at the beg of a rnd does not count as a st.
3. A ch-2 or ch-3 may be substituted for the STsc at any time without altering the construction of the square.
4. Pay close attention to the number of stitches and chains worked in each corner space. Those numbers change to ensure the square lays flat.

Video Tutorial

For the full pattern video tutorial on YouTube, click here or on the photo below.

Pattern Instructions

Ch 4, join with slip st to form ring.

Rnd 1: (STsc, 2 dc) in the ring (counts as 1^st GS), ch 3, [GS in the ring, ch 3] 3 times, join with slip st to beg st. < 4 GS, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 2: STsc in the ch-3 corner sp to the right of the hook, ch 1, [(GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, ch 1] 3 times, (GS, ch 3, 2 dc) in the same sp as the STsc to complete the 1^st corner, join with slip st to beg st. < 8 GS, 4 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 3: Slip st in the ch-1 sp, (STsc, 2 dc) in the ch-1 sp, ch 1, [(GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, ch 1, GS in the ch-1 sp, ch 1] 3 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, ch 1, join with slip st to beg st. < 12 GS, 8 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 4: STsc in the ch-1 sp to the right of the hook, ch 1, GS in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, {(GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, [ch 1, GS in the next ch-1 sp] twice, ch 1} 3 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, ch 1, 2 dc in the same sp as the STsc to complete the 1^st GS, ch 1, join with slip st to beg st. < 16 GS, 12 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 5: Slip st in the ch-1 sp, (STsc, 2 dc) in the ch-1 sp, ch 1, GS in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, {(GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, [ch 1, GS in the ch-1 sp] 3 times, ch 1} 3 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the next ch-3 corner sp, ch 1, GS in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join with slip st to beg st. < 20 GS, 16 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 6: Ch 1, hdc in the same st and in each st and ch-1 sp across to the ch-3 corner sp, [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-3 corner sp, hdc in the next st and in each st and ch-1 sp across to the next ch-3 corner sp] 3 times, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-3 corner sp, hdc in the next st and in each st and ch-1 sp across to the beg st, invisible join. < 23 hdc along each side, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Note for Rnd 7: The 1^st hdc 3lp after each corner is worked in the hidden st.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, hdc 3lp in the same st and in each st across to the ch-2 corner sp, [(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-2 corner sp, hdc 3lp in the next st and in each st across] 3 times, (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch-2 corner sp, hdc 3lp in the next st and in each st across to the beg st, join with slip st to beg st. < 23 hdc 3lp along each side, 16 hdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Note: The 3^rd skipped st is actually the skipped st of the crossed GS. (See Fig. 1 in Special Stitches)

Rnd 8: Slip st in the next st, ch 2 (counts as 1^st dc), dc in the next st, dc in the slip st join (counts as 1^st crossed GS), ch 1, sk 3, [crossed GS, ch 1, sk 3] twice, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-2 corner sp, {ch 1, sk 3 sts, [crossed GS, ch 1, sk 3 sts] 5 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-2 corner sp} 3 times, ch 1, sk 3 sts, crossed GS, ch 1, sk 3 sts] twice, join with slip st to beg ch-2. < 20 crossed GS, 8 GS, 24 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 9: STsc, dc in the next st and in each st and ch-1 sp across, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch-3 corner sp, [dc in the next st and in each st and ch-1 sp across, (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the ch-3 corner sp] 3 times, dc in the next st and in each st and ch-1 sp across to the beg st, join with slip st to beg st. < 31 dc along each side, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Note for Rnd 10: The spiked GS of this rnd should visually line up with the center of the crossed GS of Rnd 8. (See Special Stitches)

Rnd 10: Slip st in the next st, (ch 2 loosely, FPdc, dc) in the same st (counts as the 1^st spiked GS), ch 1, sk 3 sts, [spiked GS, ch 1, sk 3 sts] 3 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-3 corner sp, {ch 1, sk 3 sts, [spiked GS, ch 1, sk 3 sts] 7 times, (GS, ch 3, GS) in the ch-3 corner sp}3 times, ch 1, sk 3 sts, [spiked GS, ch 1, sk 3 sts] 3 times, join with slip st to top of ch-2. < 28 spiked GS, 8 GS, 32 ch-1 sp, 4 ch-3 corner sp >

Rnd 11: Rep Rnd 6. < 39 hdc along each side, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 7. < 39 hdc 3lp along each side, 16 hdc, 4 ch-2 corner sp >

Rnd 13: No ch, sc in the same st and in each st across to the ch-2 corner sp, 3 sc in the ch-2 corner sp, [sc in the next st and in each st across to the next ch-2 corner sp, 3 sc in the ch-2 corner sp] 3 times, sc in the next st and in each st across to the beg st, join with slip st to beg st. < 43 sc along each side, 3 sc in each ch-2 corner sp >

Fasten off and weave in ends

Lightly steam block to desired size. Blocking will soften the yarn and open up the stitches for beautiful stitch definition and gorgeous drape.